Making cheese is a great way to preserve your milk supply. Some types of cheese can be aged for two years or more without refrigeration, while others have a shelf life of two years or less. We freeze the soft cream cheese-style cheeses. We wax the cheddars, colbys and parmesans, since they will keep for a long time. We also make a marinated feta that is covered in herbs and oil. It keeps in a jar in a cupboard at room temperature for several months with no problems.

Cheese is basically milk, culture and rennet. All cheese will be white unless you color it. I never do this, as it is totally unnecessary. The different kinds of cheese are a result of the type of culture used, temperature control and cooking time. Some cheeses such as blue, Brie, Swiss or strong feta do require special enzymes to change the character of the cheese.

Forget about making American cheese. America seems to be in love with it, and yet it isn't really considered a true cheese at all. It is real, all right, but it is the result of several types of cheeses blended together with milk and stabilizers, then pressed into the neat squares you see at stores.

Mary Jane Toth has been raising goats in Michigan for 17 years. Like most goat owners, she faced the problem of "too much milk," which lead to making cheese. However, Mary Jane went much further than most. She went from operating a small catering business, and a cookie and fudge venture, to developing cheese recipes that work...and writing books (Caprine Cooking is her latest) and articles about dairy products. She conducts cheesemaking workshops throughout the country...and makes dairy products from her herd of Alpine goats.

Because it is no longer a recognized type of cheese like cheddar, colby or Swiss, it is now considered a cheese food. Check the label the next time you go to the supermarket. You won't have the type of equipment at home that is needed to reproduce American cheese.

To get started, you'll need to consider what kind of culture or starter to use. Rennet coagulates the milk. Cheese wax is a must for colby, cheddar and parmesan. Cheese wax is reusable. It can be washed in warm water, dried and melted again and again. It's an investment in your home cheesemaking. Get some good recipes, and you should be on your way to making your own dairy products.

Cultures, wax and rennet can be purchased from any good cheesemaking supply company. (See list on page 61.)

Some basic information

1. Pots and utensils: Use only stainless steel or unchipped enamel for making cheese. Acidity levels in cheese will cause the aluminum to leach into your cheese. Any stirring or cutting utensils are fine as long as they can be sanitized and are not made of aluminum.

2. Salt: Use only non-iodized salt, such as kosher or canning salt. Iodine will give your cheese a greenish cast.

3. Cheese press: You need this if you plan to make waxed cheeses. You can make one with an empty coffee can. Cut out both ends and cut a wood follower to fit the opening. Small red bricks can be wrapped in foil and used for weights. There are several good cheese presses available at a variety of prices. The best deal is the one Hoegger makes for around $60. Anyone who is handy with wood can make their own.

4. Cheese wax: Don't substitute paraffin or beeswax for the cheese wax. I have already tried them, and they don't work. Cheese wax is softer and more flexible than the other types.

5. Rennet: It comes in liquid or tablet and in vegetable or animal types. They all work equally well. The tablets keep on a shelf, but liquid rennet needs to be refrigerated. However, it does have a life expectancy of two to three years. It never really dies, but it does lose potency at about two percent a month. This can be compensated for by adding a little more rennet as it ages. The liquid rennet is a must for making soft-style cream cheese.

Don't buy Junket brand rennet from the grocery store. This is not the same thing as cheesemaking rennet.

6. Starter cultures: Cultures come freeze-dried in small packets. Some must be recultured first before using. These are considered regular type cultures.

Others are called DVI (Direct Vat Inoculate).This means that they can be added directly to the warmed milk without the added step of culturing them first. They are a real time-saver and handy for the occasional cheesemaker. The drawback is that they are generally more expensive to use. I prefer them because they are more convenient. If money is a concern, those that can be recultured are cheaper to use in the long run. Their drawback is that the culture must be recultured on a regular basis just like yogurt to keep them live and working well.

These cultures fall into two basic categories — thermophilic and mesophilic. Thermophilic is a heat-loving culture. It is used for cheeses that must be heated to a higher temperature such as mozzarella, parmesan or Swiss and Italian-type cheese. Yogurt is also made with a thermophilic culture.

Mesophilic is a non-heat loving culture which would be destroyed at higher temperatures. It is used for 90 percent of your cheesemaking. Buttermilk is made with a mesophilic culture.

I often used these items as culture substitutes in some of my recipes.

7. Cooking curds: Most times when you need to cook the curds (cooking firms them up), a sink of hot water works better than a stove. You can control the temperature better by adding more or less hot water as needed.

Cheesemaking is basically a simple process, using utensils found in most kitchens. (A cheese press isn’t needed for some cheeses, but where it’s required one can be made from PVC or even a 3-lb. coffee can.)

8. Cheesecloth: Don't buy cheesecloth from the grocery store. This isn't real cheesecloth, and it won't be useful for draining anything. Cheesecloth is a much thicker, muslin type 100 percent cotton. It can be washed in hot soapy water with bleach and be used over and over again. The best way I can describe it is that it reminds me of diaper material — not prefolded, but the old-fashioned diapers that we had to fold ourselves. When held up, you could almost see through it, but not clearly.

Old pillowcases work great for draining cheese. I cut open the seams and wash them in hot soapy bleach water. They make a nice square yard of cloth and can reused for years until they actually wear out.

To hang the cheese, we use old shoelaces which we also bleach and use over and over. Tie a big knot in each end of the lace before using. This will keep the laces from sliding out while the cheese hangs. Cheese that falls from hanging on a cupboard handle can really make a mess.

9. Aging: Waxed cheeses can be aged several ways. The ideal temperature is around 55º to 60º F. A basement or root cellar works great. A non-working refrigerator or freezer can be used to keep out rodents. I have had really good luck using a chest freezer with a tight-fitting lid. I set it in my basement and have kept cheese in there for over 1-1/2 years. Unwaxed cheeses can be kept for several months if covered with oil. Any type will do nicely, but you need to be sure that all the cheese is completely immersed in the oil. Mold needs air to grow.

10. Milk: Milk from any species can be used to make cheese. My recipes were developed using whole milk. If you're saving the cream for butter making or ice cream, you can use the leftover milk to make cheese.

Milk must be clean, cooled properly, or pasteurized and heat treated. If you're using raw milk to make cheese, the cheese should be aged for 60 days or more. Any harmful bacteria won't survive the aging process after 60 days.

11. Pasteurizing: There are pasteurizers available for purchase, but this job can also be done on a stove top. Use the double boiler method, placing one pan inside another. Add a few inches of water to the outside pot and heat the milk until it reaches 161º F. Stir to make sure the milk is at an even temperature throughout, then place in a sink full of very cold water for quick cooling.

Even if you decide not to pasteurize your milk, quick cooling is the most important step you can take to have good-tasting milk and successful cheese making. A candy thermometer works great for pasteurizing. It can be hung on the side of the pot. Once you know how long it takes for the milk to reach 161 Fº, you can set a timer to keep from accidentally overheating the milk.

Soft cheese (cream cheese style)

5 quarts whole milk
1/3 cup buttermilk
2 tablespoons diluted rennet (dilution is 3 drops of liquid rennet into 1/3 cup of cool water)

Warm the milk to 80º F. Stir in the buttermilk, mix well and add the dilute rennet solution. Stir well, cover and allow to set at room temperature for eight to 12 hours. The cheese is ready when it is thick.

Line a large bowl with a cloth and hang to drain for six to eight hours. Draining can be speeded up if you take the bag of curds down and scrape them from the outside of the bag to the center. The cheese is drained when it has stopped dripping and has the consistency of cream cheese. This cheese will freeze for several months. Makes 1-1/2 to 2 pounds.

Note: Cheesecloth won't drain this type of cheese. You must use a muslin-type cheesecloth or case cloth, as I like to call it. Case cloth is simply an old pillow case with the seams opened up to make a large square of cloth. It can be washed out in hot, soapy bleach water and reused until the cloth wears out. Shoelaces will work for hanging the cheese to drain.

You can use this cheese as a substitute for cream cheese. We like to mix in herbs and spices and make cheeseballs. Because this cheese is so versatile and easy to make, I recommend it as one of the first cheeses for the beginner.

No-rennet cottage cheese

1 gallon milk
1 cup cultured buttermilk

Warm the milk to about 95º F. Stir in the buttermilk and allow to set at room temperature for 12 to 18 hours. The milk will clabber, or become thick.

Cut the curds into 1/2-inch cubes and let rest for 10 minutes. Place the pot into a double boiler-type pot and heat at a very low setting until the curd reaches 115º F. Stir often to keep the curds from matting together. This will take an hour or more.

The curd is ready when it is somewhat firm on the interior of the cheese. Cook longer if necessary. Some whey will rise to the top. Let the curds settle to the bottom of the pot, drain off the whey and place the curds in a cloth-lined colander to drain. Be gentle, as the curds are rather fragile.

Allow the cheese to drain until it stops dripping. Place in a bowl and add salt to taste. I usually use about one teaspoon of kosher or canning salt per pound. Stir in about four ounces of half-and-half or cream per pound if you like a creamed cottage cheese.

Quick cottage cheese

1 gallon milk
1/2 cup cultured buttermilk
1/4 teaspoon liquid rennet
1/4 cup cool water

Warm the milk to 86º F. Stir in the buttermilk, mix the rennet into the cool water and add to the warmed milk. Set until it coagulates, usually about an hour. Cut the curds in 1/2 inch cubes. Heat slowly by the double boiler method until the temperature reaches about 110º F. Hold at this temperature for 30 minutes and stir often to prevent matting.

When the curds are firm, place into a cheesecloth-lined colander and let drain for 20 minutes. Lift the curds in the cheesecloth and dip into a pot of cold water. Drain until the curd stops dripping. Place curds in a bowl and add salt and cream if desired.

Cottage cheese: What went wrong?

Sour acid flavor:

Here are some of the reasons goats are so popular, and valuable, on the homestead! Fancier cheeses do require some practice and skill, but they’re not beyond the average capable cook. (Cow milk can be used in the same recipes.)

1. too much acid developed before and during cooking the curd;

2. too much whey was retained in the curd; or

3. the curd was insufficiently washed and drained.

Yeasty, sweet or unclean flavors:

1. unclean utensils or an impure starter introduced yeasts, molds or bacteria into your cheese, or

2. the milk was not completely pasteurized.

Soft, wet curd:

1. too much moisture in the cheese;

2. development of too much acid while cutting the curd;

3. heating the cut curd at too high or too low a temperature, or

4. allowing too-large curd particles to form.

Tough, dry curd:

1. insufficient acid development in the curd before it is cut;

2. cutting the curd too fine;

3. too high a heating temperature, or

4. too long a holding time after cooking and before dipping off the whey.

Cheddar cheese

2 gallons milk
1/2 cup cultured buttermilk or substitute (see list below)
1 tsp. liquid rennet or 1/2 rennet tablet
1/2 cup cool water
4 teaspoons salt

In a large stainless or enamel pot, warm the milk to 88º F and stir in buttermilk or other culture (see below). Allow the milk to set to ripen for one hour. Keep the milk warm at 88º F during this time. This can easily be done by placing the milk in a sink full of warm or hot water. Cool or hot water can be added as needed.

After one hour, mix the rennet in cool water and stir into the milk for 30 seconds. Maintain the temperature at 88º F for 45 minutes to coagulate the milk. The curd is ready to cut when you dip your finger into the curds and they break cleanly over your finger as whey fills the depression.

Cut the curds into 1/2-inch cubes and let them rest for 20 minutes, then gently stir them while increasing temperature to 98º F. Increase heat very slowly over a 30-minute period. This process is called cooking the curds. Stir often to prevent the curds from matting together. Keep at 98º F until the curds have firmed up enough where they feel spongy when gently squeezed between your fingers and no longer have a custard-like interior. This will usually take 30 to 45 minutes.

Let the curds settle to the bottom of the pot and carefully pour off some of the whey. Pour remaining curds and whey into a colander and allow to drain for 10 minutes. Place the curds back into the pot and stir in four teaspoons of salt. Mix well, breaking up any curds that have matted together. Keep the curds warm in the pot in a sink full of hot water for one hour. Stir often to keep the curds from matting.

Line a cheese press with cheesecloth, scoop curds into the press and fold over any excess cheesecloth. Place a wood follower on top of that and press at 15 pounds pressure for 20 minutes. Remove the cheese from the press, turn over and redress onto another clean cheesecloth and press at 30 pounds pressure for two hours. Remove cheese from press, redress in a clean cheesecloth and press at 30 to 40 pounds overnight.

In the morning, remove the cheese from the press and allow to air dry several days until the cheese is dry to the touch. Turn several times a day while it is drying. Coat with cheese wax when the cheese is dry to the touch. Age at 55º F for two to six months, depending on how strong you like the cheese. Really good cheddar is aged for 12 months or more.

Culture substitutions: You can use 1/4 teaspoon mesophilic DVI (direct vat inoculant) or 1/2 regular mesophilic culture in place of buttermilk.

Mild feta cheese

1 gallon milk
1/4 cup cheese culture or buttermilk
1/2 teaspoon liquid rennet
1/4 cup cool water
Coarse salt

Warm milk to 86º F and stir in cheese culture or buttermilk. Set one hour to ripen. Mix rennet into cool water and stir into milk. Cover and allow to set another hour to coagulate. Cut curds into 1/2-inch cubes and allow to rest five minutes. Stir gently for 15 minutes, keeping the curds at 86 degrees.

Pour curds into a cheesecloth-lined colander, tie the bag of curds and hang to drain for four to six hours. Slice the cheese ball in half and lay the slabs of cheese into a dish that can be covered. Sprinkle all the surfaces with coarse salt, cover and allow to set at room temperature for 24 hours.

After 24 hours, salt all the surfaces with more coarse salt and let it rest for two hours. Place the cheese in a covered dish and refrigerate for five to seven days. Use within two weeks or freeze for future use. The cheese will keep at room temperature for months if marinated in oil.

Marinated feta cheese

Mild feta cheese (stronger cheese may be used)
Jars with lids
Olive, canola or soybean oil
Your choice of herbs (use aromatic herbs for best flavor)

Cut or break the cheese into smaller pieces, about 1 to 1-1/2 inches. Use a clean jar that has a tight-fitting lid. Layer the herbs first, then the cheese. Repeat until the jar is full. Leave abut 1/2 inch of space at the top. Pour oil over the cheese and herbs, filling the jar until the mixture is completely covered with oil.

Place the marinated feta on a cupboard or shelf. Refrigeration is not necessary as long as the cheese is completely covered with oil. Air won't be able to get in, and the cheese won't mold. Enjoy it straight out of the jar or crumble into your favorite salad. The cheese gets better with age.

Some herbs to consider are rosemary, thyme, bay leaves, marjoram, sun-dried tomatoes, garlic cloves, dried hot peppers, peppercorns, basil, oregano or onions. My personal favorite combination is rosemary, basil and garlic.

Traditional (Greek-style) feta cheese aged in salt brine

1 gallon milk
1/4 cup cheese culture or buttermilk
1/8 teaspoon lipase enzyme powder
1/2 teaspoon liquid rennet
1/2 cup cool water
Coarse salt
Brine solution

Warm milk to 86º F. Stir in culture or buttermilk, add lipase enzyme to 1/4 cup cool water, dissolve enzyme and stir into milk. Set 1 hour to ripen.

Mix rennet in 1/4 cup cool water and stir into ripened milk for one minute. Allow 40 minutes to coagulate. Cut curds into one-inch cubes and let rest for 10 minutes. Stir gently for 20 minutes, keeping the curds at 86º F. Pour curds into cheesecloth-lined colander and hang the bag of curds to drain for six to eight hours.

After draining, the cheese will be very firm. Slice in half, salt all the surfaces of the cheese with coarse salt and place sections of cheese into a dish. Keep the cheese in a covered dish during the salting process at room temperature for two days. Rub all the surfaces with more salt each day. Drain off any liquid that seeps out of the cheese.

This cheese will become very strong smelling during the salting process. That is the lipase enzyme powder doing its job. After two days, the cheese should become tougher and can now be aged in a brine solution in the refrigerator. Age in brine for one to four weeks.

Brine solution:

7 ounces of canning or kosher salt
1/2 gallon cool water

Mix salt and water together. Not all of the salt will get dissolved. Place the cheese into a crock or dish with a lid. Cover the cheese with the brine solution. Cheese needs to be immersed in the brine.

Note: Feta is traditionally a very salty cheese and is best eaten crumbled over a salad or used in small amounts in other dishes. Some of the saltiness can be removed by soaking in fresh milk overnight.

Brick cheese

1 gallon milk
1/2 cup cultured buttermilk
1/4 rennet tablet or 1/2 teaspoon liquid rennet
Salt

Mix the buttermilk with the milk and warm to 86 Fº. Set two hours to ripen. Dissolve or add the rennet into 1/2 cup cool water. Stir into the milk for one minute, then cover and allow to coagulate for 45 seconds.

The curd is ready to cut when a whey-filled depression is left after it is touched by a finger. Cut into 1/2 inch cubes. Cover and allow the curds to set for 30 minutes. After setting, place the pot into a sink of hot water and slowly bring the temperature to 102º F. Hold at 102º F for 30 minutes.

Stir the curds every five minutes to prevent matting. They will look like scrambled eggs at this point. They should hold their shape and will require more cooking if they don't.

Remove curds from sink and allow to set for one hour, stirring every 10 minutes. Line a colander with cheesecloth. Lift the curds out of the whey and place in the cheesecloth. Rinse with warm water and let drain for 25 minutes. Work in a teaspoon of salt if desired.

Make a folded band out of a clean dish towel and pin it together. While leaving the curds in the cheesecloth, place them inside the band. Using two small bricks, press between two boards for 12 hours. Remove the cheesecloth and put the cheese on a rack to air dry.

Turn once in awhile to allow drying until all surfaces are dry to the touch. Salt the outside surfaces of the cheese to help draw out moisture. Turn daily and lightly salt again if needed. The cheese may dry quickly and not need much salting. When dry, wax may be applied to seal and age the cheese.

Store cheese at 50º to 60º F in a dry place, turning every other day or so. This keeps the moisture evenly distributed inside the cheese. Aging can last from one to six months depending on how strong you like your cheese.

Ricotta cheese

Ricotta is a fresh Italian cheese. It is traditionally made from fresh whey left over from the cheesemaking process. Ricotta is very mild, and it is used in many Italian dishes such as lasagna or stuffed manicotti.

You can use the whey left from all types of cheesemaking with the exception of the soft French-style goat cheese, soft molded or herbed goat cheese and Neufchatel. Those cheeses are made with drops of rennet which are not sufficient for ricotta.

The whey must be very fresh, so plan ahead to make ricotta on a day when you are already making other kinds of cheese. Yield is very low, and whole milk is added to boost the yield.

There are several ways to make ricotta. Here are some interesting ones to try. Ricotta can be used in many recipes, and it's great in cake mixes and other recipes. Besides adding extra protein, it makes cakes come out rich and moist. You can also beat it until smooth, add some herbs or dip mixes and have a terrific dip or spread. Because ricotta is such a mild cheese, it mixes nicely with other dishes. Be creative.

Old-fashioned ricotta

1 gallon or more of fresh whey
1 to 1-1/2 quarts milk

Heat whey to 195º F in a large kettle, then slowly stir in the milk. Bring heat back to 195º F, stirring often to prevent scorching. The ricotta is ready to drain when you see little white, fine-grained pieces forming in the pot. Line a colander with cheesecloth and pour the curds into the cloth. Hang to drain for one hour. When drained, remove the cheese from the cloth and add salt to taste. One-half teaspoon per two cups is about right. Store in refrigerator. Will keep for about a week. Use whole milk or cream for a richer ricotta.

Ricotta cheese using lemon juice

1 gallon fresh whey
1 quart fresh milk
Juice of one lemon (about 1/4 cup)
1/2 teaspoon canning or kosher salt

Whey should be very fresh. It will still be good if you have less than a gallon. Place whey and whole milk in a large stainless or enamel pot. Heat to 195º F, remove from heat and add lemon juice.

Stir the mixture for several minutes, watching as the juice produces tiny curds in the liquid. Pour the hot whey and curds into a cheesecloth-lined colander and allow to drain and cool for 25 minutes. Remove curd from the cloth and break into tiny pieces in a bowl. Add salt to taste. Add a little whole milk or cream for a richer ricotta. Will keep for one week in the refrigerator.

Ricotta cheese using vinegar

1 gallon fresh whole milk
1/4 cup cider vinegar

Mozzarella

Mozzarella seems to be one cheese we make often, and there are many ways to make it. Old World traditional mozzarella takes longer to make, but has a higher yield per gallon of milk.

Quick mozzarella is simpler and faster to make. The cheese freezes very well and is used in many recipes besides pizza. The following recipes will make a very mild mozzarella. You'll need to add a lipase powder if you like mozzarella with a stronger flavor.

Making Mozzarella The curds   Jessica Wood, stretching mozzarella   The finished cheese

Lipase powders are available from cheesemaking supply companies and are usually added at the rate of 1/8 teaspoon per two gallons of milk. Be sure to mix in water to dissolve powder before adding to milk.

Mozzarella is a fun cheese to make. It doesn't require lots of expensive equipment. You don't need a cheese press to make it, and it can be eaten fresh. Children especially enjoy helping with this cheese. I use liquid rennet because it can make a bigger variety of cheese and is cheaper to use than the tablets. Both calf or vegetable rennet work equally well.

Mozzarella is heat treated in the final stages to give it the desired stretch. This can be done either in the microwave or on the stove. Because mozzarella requires a high acidic level in the cheese before it can get stretchy, we add citric acid powder to speed this process along. The Old World traditional mozzarella gets its acidity by adding a culture and allowing it to ripen over a two-hour or longer period.

All cheese should be made in a stainless steel or unchipped enamel pot. Never use aluminum, as this can leach into the cheese. Use only canning or non-iodized kosher salt. Salt with iodine will give your cheese a slight yellowish-green tint. It's best to use a sink of hot water to raise or lower the temperature of the cheese. You can add more hot water as needed without worrying about scorching the milk.

Citric acid powder quickly raises the acidity so that the cheese will stretch. This is used for the quick method, but traditional mozzarella gets its acidity slowly by adding a culture and allowing it to ripen. Citric acid powder is available at cheesemaking supply companies, and pharmacists will sometimes order it. Candy and cake decorating supply companies often have it, as citric acid is used to make hard rock candy.

Thermophilic culture can be heated to 110 degrees or more. It is used to make many Italian-type cheeses such as mozzarella. It is an old-fashioned culture, sometimes called traditional or regular thermophilic and must be recultured before using. The other and more convenient type is a DVI thermophilic culture. DVI stands for direct vat inoculant and can be added directly to the warmed milk.

Old World traditional mozzarella cheese

It takes a little practice to know the exact time to begin the stretching process, but this mozzarella is well worth the effort. It has a higher yield per gallon of milk than the mozzarella made with citric acid powder. However, the citric acid assures you that the stretch will be ready when you are.

The old-fashioned mozzarella takes a bit longer, and the acidic level is reached over time with the aid of a thermophilic culture, so it can be a little tricky to know when the cheese is ready to stretch. Continued practice will help you get better at making this cheese.

2 gallons milk
1/8 teaspoon DVI thermophilic culture
1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon fresh rennet — amount depends on age and freshness
1/2 cup cool water

Warm the milk to 90º F and add the thermophilic culture. Dilute the rennet into cool water and stir into the milk for 15 seconds. Allow the curds to coagulate for 45 minutes to one hour and 15 minutes. Curd is ready to cut when it breaks cleanly over your finger and whey fills the depression. Cut curd gently into one-inch pieces and let rest for 20 minutes.

Increase the temperature of the curds about 2 degrees every five minutes, stirring often to keep the curds from matting together. Heat until the mixture reaches 100º F. This is best done in a sink of hot water. When the curds have reached 100º F, hold at this temperature by adding hot water to the sink as necessary and begin timing. You don't need to drain off the whey and curds. Let it set in the sink, keeping warm to acidify for about 2-1/2 hours.

Test a small handful of curds in very hot water (150º to 155ºF). If they aren't ready to stretch, leave them to set a little longer. Determining the point when the curds are ready to stretch is a matter of getting a feel for how the cheese is supposed to be. When right, the curds melt together and stretch beautifully. Let it set in the sink, keeping warm to acidify for about 2-1/2 hours. At this stage, you can drain the curds, refrigerate and finish the stretching another day by using hot water.

Another method is to remove the curds from the whey, place the whey back on the stove in a double boiler and heat the whey back to 150º to 155º F. Place the curds, which by now have knitted themselves into one mass, back into the hot whey. Work quickly. Use of a large slotted spoon and a large regular spoon will help in the stretching process. Pull and stretch like taffy, shape into a ball and place in a brine solution for 10 to 30 minutes, depending on how salty you like your cheese.

The brine solution is two pounds of kosher salt per gallon of water, or eight ounces of salt per quart. The amount of salt can be adjusted to suit your taste. This cheese is great eaten fresh with a slice of tomato, a basil leaf and olive oil drizzled over the cheese.

Quick mozzarella cheese

1 gallon milk
1-1/4 teaspoons citric acid powder
1/4 teaspoon liquid rennet or 1/8 rennet tablet
1/2 cup cool water, divided in half

Place the cool milk in a stainless or enamel pot. Dissolve the citric acid powder into 1/4 cup cool water and add to the milk. Stir well and bring the temperature of the milk to 88º F. Mix the rennet with the other 1/4 cup of cool water and stir into the milk for about 10 seconds. Allow the milk to set at 88º F for 15 minutes to coagulate.

The curds should be firm after 15 minutes. When you dip your finger into the curds, they should break cleanly over the finger, and whey should fill the depression where your finger has been. Cut into one-inch cubes and let rest for 10 minutes. Then place the pot of curds into a sink of very hot water and slowly bring the temperature up to 108º F. Curds will shrink during this process. Keep the curds at 108º F for 35 minutes. Drain curds into a colander for 15 minutes.

Save the whey if you're making ricotta or heat treating the curds in the whey rather than using the microwave method. The curds are ready to be heat treated to get their stretch after they have drained. I prefer the microwave method, but here are both ways to stretch mozzarella.

Microwave method

Break up a cupful of curds into a microwave-safe plate or bowl. Add salt to taste. I like about 1/2 teaspoon of salt per pound of cheese, which equals 1/4 teaspoon per cup.

Place the curds into the microwave and heat on high for 50 seconds. Take out and work the cheese with the back of a spoon, much like kneading the cheese. Place the cheese back into the microwave and heat on high for another 25 seconds. Remove from microwave and again work with a spoon to stretch and shape the cheese. Work into a soft ball with your hands and allow to cool. Will become opaque and shiny. Wrap in plastic or freeze for later use. Will keep about two weeks in the refrigerator.

Stovetop method

You can use either hot water or whey saved from draining the curds. Use a double boiler method, or you'll scorch the whey. You will need enough hot water to cover the curds and whey.

Heat the water or whey to 150º to 155º F, then place the curds (which by now have formed into a mass) back into the hot liquid. Work quickly, as it doesn't take long in the hot liquid before the curds melt together and become stretchy. This is an amazing process that happens very quickly.

Use a large slotted and large regular spoon and bring the curd up out of the liquid, pulling and stretching it like taffy. You can use your hands or the spoons to stretch the cheese. Shape into balls and place into a brine solution for 10 to 30 minutes, depending on how salty you like your cheese. Remove from brine and pat dry or air dry. Refrigerate cheese for up to two weeks. Freeze for longer storage.

Cheesemaking Supply Sources

Hoegger Supply Co.
160 Providence Rd.
PO Box 331
Fayetteville GA 30214
1-800-221-4628

New England Cheesemaking Supply Co.
PO Box 85CC
Ashfield MA 01330
413-628-3808
www.cheesemaking.com

Cheesemaking Supply Outlet
9155 Madison Road
Montville OH 44064

Gloryland Cheesemaking
PO Box 2580
Santa Maria CA 93457