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Delightful eggplant dishes
from Eastern lands


By Habeeb Salloum

Appealing to the eye, delicious tasting and versatile, eggplants are a vegetarian's dream vegetable. In all shapes, from round or egg-shaped to finger-like and tiny, this attractive vegetable comes in all shades of colors-mainly from jet black to light purple.

Barely known in North America, eggplants are increasingly catching on in the kitchens of this continent. On the other hand, in Asia and the countries bordering the Mediterranean, eggplants have been a popular vegetable for centuries-in many instances they're used as a meat substitute.

For thousands of years, they were employed in the culinary arts of China, India and Iran. Yet it was only after the Arab-Islamic conquests that their cultivation in the Mediterranean Basin began. When the Arabs in the 7th century entered Iran, they immediately took to the vegetable and brought it back home under the name, badhinjan, an Arabized form of the Persian badnjan. In the next century, after their occupation of the Iberian Peninsula, the Arabs introduced this vegetable into Europe. The Spanish berenjena, Portuguese berinjela and the French aubergine, are all derived from the Arabic badhinjan. Curiously, even though most European languages adopted the Arabic appellation, English derived its name from an eggplant species which resembles an egg.

In the villas and palaces of Muslim Spain, the eggplant often graced the tables of the Moors. Soon its cultivation spread to the remainder of Europe and, with the Conquistador, came to North America. However, in North America, only in the last few decades has it been cultivated in an appreciable quantity, mainly in the southern U.S.

Requiring long warm summers to mature, eggplants thrive best in the tropical parts of the world. They grow from one to two feet high and produce wide grey-green leaves and fruits weighing from a few ounces to more than two pounds. They are attractive plants and are, at times, cultivated for ornamental purposes. However, they are mainly raised for their edible fruit-to its users, a gourmet delight.

The nutritional value of eggplants is about average, perhaps on the same level as tomatoes. They are not rich in calories, making them ideal for those who want to watch their weight. In the Mediterranean countries they are known as "the peasant's meat" and regarded as a staple. This meaty texture makes them extremely versatile. It is said that if the eggplant recipes of all the Mediterranean countries were gathered, there would be well more than a thousand. In the Arab countries of the Middle East alone, at least 150 eggplant dishes are known.

Eggplants can be cooked or preserved in various ways. When they are to be puréed, they can be roasted over coals or in the oven. Broiling over an open fire gives them a delicate smoky flavor, but baking them in the oven is much easier. The skin should be pierced in several places before roasting or baking and the eggplants turned a few times as they cook. When the skin blisters, the eggplants are cooked, then the skin should be removed immediately. The resulting light creamy texture of the cooked pulp is appealing and extraordinarily good to eat.

If the eggplant is to be fried or utilized in salads and stews, after slicing or cubing, it should be placed in a strainer, then sprinkled with salt. A weight should then be placed on top and the pieces allowed to drain for half an hour to remove the bitter juices. When being fried, the eggplant slices or cubes must be fried quickly to cut down on the absorption of the oil or butter.

When eggplants are to be preserved, besides pickling ingredients, oil is utilized. This gives the pickles a smooth rich taste. Experience through the centuries has demonstrated that oil is the perfect medium to use when cooking or preserving eggplants.

Keeping these hints in mind, a cook can plunge quickly into the delightful culinary world of this vegetable-in taste and texture a vegetarian's dream. For the uninitiated, these few simple dishes from the Middle Eastern and North African world will open the door to the mouth-watering eggplant kitchen.

Eggplant Appetizer
Badhinjan Mutabbal

Serves 4 to 6

1 medium eggplant, about 1 lb., peeled and diced into 1/2 inch cubes
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup olive oil
4 tablespoons lemon juice
4 cloves garlic, crushed
1 small hot pepper, very finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon pepper
2 tablespoons toasted pine nuts
4 sprigs parsley

Place eggplant cubes in a strainer, and sprinkle with salt. Top with a weight, and allow to drain for 3/4 hour.

Heat oil in a frying pan, then fry eggplant cubes over medium heat until they turn light brown, adding more oil if necessary. Remove, drain on paper towels and allow to cool.

In the meantime, combine lemon juice, garlic, hot pepper and pepper, then set aside.

Place eggplant cubes on a serving platter, spoon the lemon juice mixture evenly over top. Decorate with the pine nuts and parsley, then serve.


Moroccan Eggplant and Vegetable Marrow Soup

Serves about 8

1 medium eggplant, about 1 lb., peeled and diced into 1/2 inch cubes
2-1/2 teaspoons salt
1/2 cup olive oil
1 medium sized vegetable marrow (i.e., summer squash, such as zucchini), about 6 to 7 inches long and cut into 1/2 inch cubes
1 medium onion, finely chopped
4 cloves garlic, crushed
4 tablespoons fresh coriander, finely chopped
2 large tomatoes, finely chopped
1 teaspoon dried-crushed basil
1 teaspoon cumin
1/2 teaspoon pepper
6 cups water

Place eggplant cubes in a strainer, and sprinkle with 1 teaspoon of the salt. Top with a weight and allow to drain for 3/4 hour.

Heat oil in a saucepan, add the vegetable marrow. Sauté over medium heat for 3 minutes, stir in eggplant cubes, onion, garlic and coriander. Stir-fry constantly until the eggplants begin to brown. Add the remainder of the ingredients, including the remaining 1-1/2 teaspoons of salt, then bring to a boil. Cover, simmer over medium heat for 30 minutes. Serve hot.


Fried Eggplant
Badhinjan Miqli

Serves 4 to 6

1 eggplant, 1 to 1-1/2 lbs., peeled, sliced into 1/2 inch thick slices
1-1/2 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1/2 cup olive oil
2 tablespoons lemon juice

Place eggplant slices in a strainer, sprinkle with the salt. Top with a weight, and allow to drain for 3/4 hour.

Combine garlic powder, coriander and pepper, then sprinkle this mixture on the eggplant slices.

Heat oil in a frying pan, over moderately high heat, fry the eggplant slices on both sides until they are evenly browned.

Place on a serving platter, sprinkle with the lemon juice. Serve hot or cold.

Note: Eggplant cooked this way is excellent for sandwiches made with Arabic bread (pita) or served as a side dish.


Yemeni Style Eggplant Purée

Serves 6 to 8

1 medium eggplant, about 1 lb.
1 medium Spanish onion, very finely chopped
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1/4 cup black olives, pitted and sliced
1 small tomato, finely chopped
1/4 cup finely chopped parsley

Barbecue eggplant or bake in an oven, turning often until cooked. Peel while still hot, then mash into pulp in a mixing bowl. Add onion, olive oil, garlic, salt, pepper and lemon juice, then mix well. Place on a serving platter, decorate with olives, tomato and parsley just before serving.

Note: Excellent as a side dish or as a dip.


Eggplant Salad
Salatat Badhinjan

Serves about 8

1 eggplant, 1 to 1-1/2 lbs., peeled and diced into 1/2 inch cubes
1-1/2 teaspoons salt
1/2 cup olive oil
2 large tomatoes, chopped
1 medium sized cucumber, peeled and chopped into small pieces
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 small bunch green onions, finely chopped
1/2 cup parsley, finely chopped
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon pepper
2 teaspoons sumac
1/4 cup black olives, pitted and quartered

Place eggplant cubes in a strainer, sprinkle with 1 teaspoon of the salt. Top with a weight, allow to drain for 3/4 hour.

Heat olive oil, with exception of 2 tablespoons, in a frying pan, sauté eggplant cubes over moderately high heat until they turn golden brown, adding more oil if necessary. Remove from oil, place in a strainer and allow to drain and cool.

Place eggplant cubes and the remainder of the ingredients, including the remaining 1/2 teaspoon of salt and2 tablespoons of oil in a salad bowl, then gently toss and serve immediately.


Moroccan Eggplant Salad

Serves 4 to 6

1 eggplant, 1 to 1-1/2 lbs., peeled and diced into 1/2 inch cubes
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
5 cups water
1-1/2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon cumin
1 teaspoon paprika
4 tablespoons lemon juice
4 tablespoons olive oil

Place the eggplant cubes, garlic, water and 1 teaspoon of the salt in a saucepan, cover and bring to boil. Cook until the eggplant cubes are cooked but still firm-about 10 minutes from boiling time.

Place saucepan contents into a strainer, allow to cool.

Transfer to a salad bowl, sprinkle with the remaining 1/2 teaspoon of salt, cumin and paprika, then gently toss.

Just before serving, add the lemon juice and olive oil, gently toss again and serve immediately.


Eggplant And Chickpea Stew Manazilet Badhinjan

Serves about 8

As an ingredient in stews, eggplants reach their epitome in the culinary art. Browned in olive oil, then simmered in herbs and spices, they enhance the other ingredients.

1 medium eggplant, about 1 lb., peeled and diced into 1 inch cubes
2 teaspoons salt
6 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, finely chopped
3 cloves garlic, crushed
2 cups cooked chickpeas
1 medium zucchini, 6 to 8 inches long, diced into 1 inch cubes
2 cups stewed tomatoes
3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
1-1/2 cups water

Place eggplant cubes in a strainer, then sprinkle with 1 teaspoon of the salt. Top with a weight, then allow to drain for 3/4 hour.

Heat oil in a saucepan, and sauté eggplant cubes over moderately high heat until they begin to brown, adding more oil if necessary. Add onion and garlic, then sauté for a few more minutes. Stir in remaining ingredients, and bring to boil. Cover, cook over low heat for 30 minutes, adding more water if necessary. Serve hot or cold.


Eggplant Stew
Yakhnat Badhinjan

Serves 8 to 10

1 large eggplant, about 2 lbs., peeled and diced into 1 inch cubes
2 teaspoons salt
4 tablespoons oil
1 lb. tofu, cut into 1 inch cubes
2 medium sized onions, chopped
4 cloves garlic, crushed
3 cups water
2 medium potatoes, peeled and diced into 1/2 inch cubes
2 cups stewed tomatoes
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon cumin

Place eggplant cubes in a strainer, then sprinkle with 1 teaspoon of the salt. Top with a weight, allow to drain for 3/4 hour.

Heat oil in a saucepan, add tofu cubes and sauté over medium heat until they are lightly browned. Stir in onions and garlic, sauté for another 5 minutes. Add the remaining 1 teaspoon of salt and the remaining ingredients, then cook for 45 minutes, adding more water if necessary.

Serve hot with cooked rice or mashed potatoes.

Note: This recipe is not truly authentic. In the Middle East, meat is used instead of tofu.


Eggplant Pickles
Badhinjan Makbus

Makes a quart jar

1 unpeeled, 1 lb. eggplant, sliced lengthwise in the middle, then sliced into 1/2 inch thick slices
2 teaspoons salt
1/2 cup vinegar
4 large cloves of garlic, finely chopped
1 teaspoon thyme, finely crushed
1 teaspoon peppercorn
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 teaspoon ground coriander
olive oil

Place eggplant slices in a strainer, then sprinkle with 1 teaspoon of the salt. Top with a weight, then allow to drain for 3/4 hour.

Place eggplant slices and vinegar in a pot and cover with water, then bring to boil. Cook for about 4 minutes, then remove and drain in a strainer and allow to cool.

Combine garlic, thyme, peppercorn, ginger, coriander and the remaining 1 teaspoon of salt, then set aside.

Pack the eggplant slices in a quart jar with the seasoning mixture sprinkled between each layer. Add enough olive oil to top the eggplant slices by 1/2 inch. Store for two weeks before use.


Candied Eggplants
Badhinjan Maqqid

To end our culinary journey through the badhinjan world of the Middle East and North Africa we cannot think of a better dish than this sweet delicacy.

1 dozen tiny eggplants about 3 inches long, washed and stemmed
2 cups sugar
2-1/2 cups water
1/2 teaspoon whole cloves
2 teaspoons mazahar (orange blossom water)
4 tablespoons lemon juice

Place eggplants in a pot, cover with water. Bring to a boil, cook over medium heat for about 5 minutes. Remove, drain in a strainer.

In the meantime, place sugar, water and cloves in a saucepan. Stirring constantly, boil over medium heat until sugar melts. Add eggplants, cook over low heat for 20 minutes. Stir in mazahar and lemon juice, cook for further 5 minutes, adding a little more water if necessary. Remove, allow to cool before serving dessert with or without the syrup.





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