Once only a soul food in the southern American states, okra is slowly becoming familiar in all parts of North America. Also, known as bamya, gumbo and ladies' fingers, it has been for hundreds of years a popular vegetable, especially in Africa, India and the Middle East. With the discovery of the New World, its consumption as an important food spread to the Caribbean, Central America and the deep south of the U.S.A. Today, fresh, canned and frozen, okra is featured on most supermarket shelves. As year after year more people become aware of its deliciously unique taste, it has gradually crept into the North American kitchen.

Once treasured as a delicacy in Moorish Spain, this small attractively shaped vegetable had its origin in Ethiopia. From that ancient land, it traveled north to the Mediterranean shores and east to India. The African Arabs who called it uehka, from which the name okra could have been derived, carried it to West Africa and the Iberian Peninsula. In Spain after the Christian conquest it fell out of favor, but in much of Africa and the eastern Mediterranean it thrived and became a popular food.

In the 17th century okra came to North America from West Africa, along with the slaves brought by the French to Louisiana. In the ensuing years it was extensively cultivated in the Mississippi delta - its original American home. Here, it not only became a favored food, but also, for some unexplained reason, developed a reputation as a love vegetable.

Widely grown in a number of tropical and sub-tropical lands, okra flourishes in areas with long hot, but not too wet summers. It is the fruit of a decorative annual belonging to the mallow family of the genus hibiscus, closely related to the cotton plant.

Growing from 2 to 10 feet high with heart-shaped leaves and crimson centered yellow flowers, a magnet for bees, the plant is cultivated mainly for its immature pods. These are tapering, ten-angled capsules with five or more sections filled with seeds. Dark green in color, they can reach a length of 12 inches. The plants are prodigious yielders and must be picked every few days unless the pods are to be harvested for their seeds.

If they are to be used in cooking, the pods must be gathered before they mature on the plant and become overly tough and fibrous. They are at their best when tender, fresh and crisp - usually less than 3 inches long. If the pods turn yellowish-spotted brown, they are over-mature and not fit for the pot.

Besides the pods, the leaves of the okra plant are, at times, cooked as greens and the dried seeds can be utilized as an alternative to dried beans. They can also be ground into a high-protein food or roasted and ground as a pleasant-tasting coffee substitute.

When the pods are allowed to ripen on the plant there is an extra-ordinary increase in the protein content of the seeds. In addition to some minerals and vitamins, they contain as much protein as soybeans. However, their balanced amino acid pattern makes more of this essential nutrient available to the body.

The tender pods, used in cooking, are high in calcium and contain some potassium and a modest amount of vitamins A & C. To retain these healthful elements, they must be cooked when fresh. Okra spoils easily and will only keep a day or two in a cool room. On the other hand, if placed in plastic bags, the pods can be stored for up to 2 weeks in a refrigerator.

In the bygone ages, when okra was to be preserved for long periods of time, the pods were dried in the sun. Today, with the exception of the countries in Africa and Asia where drying is still practiced, they are canned or frozen. The dried product which can be found in most Middle Eastern markets and some health stores is much better than the canned variety. Canning brings out the worst in this vegetable. It destroys the pod's dark green color and brings out their sticky-like unappetizing texture.

By far the best method of preservation is freezing. Only the young delicate pods should be chosen. Before being frozen, the stems must be removed without breaking the crowns. The pods are then to be blanched in boiling water for 2 minutes and allowed to cool before being packed in plastic bags and frozen. On the other hand, no cook needs to go to all this trouble. Frozen okra, imported in winter from Central America and Mexico, is available year-round in almost every North American supermarket.

Okra can be baked, boiled or fried. However, it should never be cooked in aluminum, iron or tin utensils as the metal is likely to discolor and darken the pods. It is best cooked in enameled or Pyrex pans and pots.

Great care must be taken in cooking the fresh pods. The mucilaginous juice of okra gives it a slimy texture. Hence, it must be cooked properly or it will become a gluey mess and an unpopular dish.

To eliminate this problem, the pods should be washed well and the stems trimmed, then soaked and stirred a few times for one hour in l cup of vinegar with a little water to about 2 pounds okra. The vinegar can then be discarded and the okra allowed to dry before use. This operation does away with discoloration and stops the opening up of the pods. The frozen product needs no such preparation. After thawing, the pods are ready for cooking.

Okra is often employed for flavoring and as a food thickener. Its subtle distinctive eggplant-like flavor makes it an excellent ingredient in soups. The special gumminess of this vegetable produces an ideal thick and rich broth. Hence, it is commercially grown for manufacturers who make it into a powder for thickening soups.

In addition to its use in soups, okra is employed in a number of other ways in the kitchen. The pods can be stewed by themselves with herbs and spices or cooked with chicken, fish or meat, and in combination with a number of vegetables like chickpeas, corn, onions, fresh peppers and tomatoes. However, with the exception of these vegetables, okra does not blend well with most other vegetables and, hence, is hardly ever prepared in stews with other garden produce. In almost all okra dishes, lemon juice is a desirable ingredient. It always brings out the delectable flavor of the okra.

Although not essential in the preparation of some stews, the secret of cooking okra is to sauté the pods at the beginning of cooking. When being sautéed the pods should be stirred gently so that they do not break. If they open, the dish will have a slimy texture. Also, as little water as possible helps in preserving the taste and the attractiveness of the pods.

In the southern USA where okra is very popular as a soul food, it is usually dipped in cornmeal and fried or made into gumbo - a dish consisting of okra, chicken, meat or shellfish stewed with herbs and spices. These foods are similar to a good number of dishes made from this delicious vegetable in the Middle East and Africa. The following dishes are a minuscule selection based on versions of the recipes from these ancient lands.

Okra and Garlic Appetizer

Serves 4

4 tablespoons cooking oil
1 package frozen okra (10.6 oz. 300 g), thawed
1/2 head garlic, crushed
1/4 cup olive oil
1/4 cup lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
l/8 teaspoon cayenne
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander leaves

Heat oil in a frying pan, then sauté okra over medium heat for 10 minutes or until the pods begin to turn brown, then transfer to serving platter and allow to cool. In the meantime, prepare a sauce by placing remaining ingredients in a blender, then blending for about a moment. Spread the sauce evenly over the okra, then serve.

Okra Soup

Serves 8 to 10

4 tablespoons butter
1 pound chicken, cut into small pieces
2 medium onions, chopped
4 cloves garlic, crushed
1 small hot pepper, finely chopped
2 cups stewed tomatoes
6 cups water
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon cumin
1/2 teaspoon ginger
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1 package. frozen okra (10.6 oz. 300 g), cut into small piece
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander leaves

Melt butter in a saucepan, then sauté chicken pieces over medium heat for 5 minutes. Add onions, garlic and hot pepper, then stir-fry for further 10 minutes. Add remaining ingredients, except coriander leaves, then bring to boil. Cover, then cook over medium heat for 1 hour or until chicken is well cooked. Stir in coriander leaves, then serve hot.

Okra and Tomatoes

Serves 4

4 tablespoons cooking oil
1 package frozen okra (10.6 oz. 300 g), thawed
2 medium onions, chopped
4 cloves garlic, crushed
1/2 small hot pepper, finely chopped
2 cups stewed tomatoes
3/4 cup water
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1/4 teaspoon allspice
1/4 teaspoon cumin
2 tablespoons lemon juice

Heat oil in a saucepan, then sauté okra over medium heat for 10 minutes or until pods begin to turn brown. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside. In same oil, adding more if necessary, sauté onions, garlic and hot pepper over medium heat for 10 minutes. Stir in remaining ingredients, including okra, but not lemon juice, then bring to boil. Cover, then simmer over medium heat for 30 minutes. Stir in lemon juice, then serve hot or cold.

Okra and Corn

Serves 4

4 tablespoons butter
I medium onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1/2 small hot pepper, finely chopped
1 package frozen okra (10.6 oz. 300 g), thawed
1 can whole kernel corn (12 oz. 341 ml), with its water
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander leaves or parsley
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1/4 teaspoon cumin
3/4 cup water
2 tablespoons lemon Juice

Melt butter in a saucepan, then sauté onion, garlic and hot pepper over medium heat for 10 minutes. Add remaining ingredients, except lemon juice, then bring to a boil. Cover, then simmer over medium heat for 30 minutes. Stir in lemon juice, then serve hot or cold.

Okra with Sesame Paste

Serves 4

1/2 cup finely ground bread crumbs
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1/4 teaspoon cumin
l/8 teaspoon cayenne
1 egg, beaten with a little water in a small bowl
1/2 cup cooking oil
1 pound fresh okra, washed, then stemmed and sliced in half lengthwise
2 tablespoons tahini (sesame seed paste)
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 clove garlic, crushed
1/2 teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons water

In a bowl, combine bread crumbs, pepper, cumin and cayenne, then set aside on a plate beside bowl with beaten egg bowl. Heat oil in a frying pan, then dip sliced okra in egg and roll in bread crumbs. Fry over medium high heat for about 5 minutes or until okra turns golden brown, adding more oil if necessary. Remove with a slotted spoon, then place on a serving platter. Thoroughly mix remaining ingredients, then spoon evenly over the okra and serve immediately.

Okra with Yogurt

Serves 6

4 tablespoons olive oil
1 package frozen okra (10.6 oz. 300 g), thawed
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander seeds
1/4 teaspoon cumin
3 cups plain yogurt
4 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander leaves or parsley
3/4 teaspoon salt
l/8 teaspoon cayenne
1 clove garlic, crushed

Heat oil in a frying pan, then add okra and sprinkle with coriander and cumin. Sauté over medium heat until okra begin to brown, gently turning them over once or twice. Remove with a slotted spoon, then allow to cool. Place remaining ingredients in a serving bowl, then thoroughly mix. Stir in okra, then serve cold.

Chickpea and Okra Stew

Serves 4

4 tablespoons olive oil
2 medium onions, chopped
6 cloves garlic, crushed
1/2 small hot pepper, finely chopped
1 package frozen okra (10.6 oz. 300 g), thawed
1 can chickpeas (19 oz. 540 ml), with its water
1/2 cup water
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon cumin
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
1/2 teaspoon ground mustard
1/4 teaspoon pepper
4 tablespoons lemon juice

Heat oil in a saucepan, then sauté onions, garlic and hot pepper over medium heat for 10 minutes. Add okra, then gently stir-fry for further 5 minutes. Add remaining ingredients, except lemon juice, then bring to a boil. Simmer over medium heat for about 25 minutes, adding a little more water if necessary, then stir in lemon juice and serve hot or cold with cooked rice.

Beef and Okra Stew

Serves 4 to 6

4 tablespoons butter
1 pound beef, cut into 1/2 inch cubes
2 medium onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 small hot pepper, finely chopped
2 cups stewed tomatoes
1 cup water
1 package frozen okra (10.6 oz. 300 g), thawed
4 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander leaves or parsley
4 tablespoons lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ginger
1/4 teaspoon pepper

Melt butter in a saucepan, then sauté beef over medium heat for 10 minutes. Add onions, garlic and hot pepper, then sauté for further 10 minutes. Add tomatoes and water, then bring to boil. Cover, then cook over medium heat for 30 minutes. Gently stir in remaining ingredients, then bring to boil. Simmer over medium heat for 25 minutes, then serve hot with mashed potatoes or cooked rice.

Chicken and Okra Casserole

Serves 4 to 6

2 tablespoons cooking oil
1 pound chicken breasts, cut into 1/2 inch cubes
2 medium onions, chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed
2 cups stewed tomatoes
1/2 cup water
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
l/8 teaspoon cayenne
1 package frozen okra (10.6 oz. 300 g), thawed
2 tablespoons lemon juice

Heat oil in a frying pan, then sauté chicken over medium heat for 10 minutes. Add onions and garlic, then sauté for a further 10 minutes. Stir in tomatoes and water, then bring to boil. Cover, then cook over medium heat for 20 minutes. Transfer frying pan contents to a casserole, then gently stir in remaining ingredients, except lemon juice. Cover, then bake in a 350 F preheated oven for 1 hour. Stir in lemon juice, then serve hot with mashed potatoes or cooked rice.

Seafood and Okra Casserole

Serves 4 to 6

4 tablespoons butter
6 cloves garlic, crushed
1/2 small hot pepper, finely chopped
I package frozen okra (10.6 oz. 300 g), thawed
1 can crab meat (4.23 oz. 120 g)
1 can clams (5 oz. 142 g)
2 cups stewed tomatoes
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander seeds
1/4 teaspoon cumin
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1/4 teaspoon pepper
4 tablespoons lemon juice

Melt butter in a frying pan, then sauté garlic and hot pepper over medium heat for 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer frying pan contents to a casserole, then gently stir in remaining ingredients, except lemon juice. Cover and bake in a 350 F preheated oven for 1 hour, then stir in lemon juice and serve hot with cooked rice.