Author's note:
In these days of political correctness and the crippling thought of casting any type of judgment on anything as good or bad, this article stands as a testimony to the insane degree this way of thinking has permeated our society. Today "anglers" have demanded that Fish and Game Departments regulate fishing to the point that it has become more and more difficult for the average Joe to bring home some fresh fish to feed his family. The traditional "fisherman"-one who enjoyed actually bringing home some of what he caught-has sadly been replaced by the "sport angler"-an individual more interested in the "experience" of catching fish than "lowering himself" to actually eating what he caught. This snobbery has changed the scope and motivation behind traditional "fishing for the pan."
This article attempts to illustrate this absurdity and at the same time, provide some simple suggestions and tips on how to make the most out of these plentiful natural foods. This information can really add variety and flavor to your family's meals, stretch your food dollars a little further, and help justify the price paid for a fishing license. Limits on these fish species are generally quite liberal as opposed to "game fish" in most states.
Best of all, these foods will help you retain your remaining sanity.
More time spent fishing and less time wasted buying groceries in town.
That sounds like a pretty fair deal to me. - Shawn Johnson
My good friend Phil is a serious fisherman and by most accounts a generally successful one. However Phil is one of those "catch and release" guys so no one can really confirm this contention. Out of pity, guilt or some other misplaced emotion, he informed me that he was taking me walleye fishing. In hindsight I really don't know that I had much choice in the matter as he had become quite persistent. At any rate he confidently declared that after this trip I would also be caught by the same spell that most anglers fall under-pure dedication, loyalty and blind allegiance to the crowned prince of North American freshwater anglers-the walleye. I had my doubts.
I accompanied him with much trepidation as we embarked on a damp and rainy morning in worship of this mysterious fish. Speeding across the water at what seemed to be 6,000 miles per hour, we arrived at our predetermined destination. I was instructed by my "professor" to let out the line on the rod he provided until the line counter read 80 feet. I did as instructed. My professor then attached a plastic clothespin contraption with a lead weight attached to the line and advised me to let out an additional 50 feet and wait. The professor then consulted the vast "Starship Enterprise" of gauges, dials, video screens and other electronics which occupied half the capacity of the boat and triumphantly declared; "Look at all those fish down there!" I, however, didn't see a single fish on that screen he pointed to, just a hodge podge of black marks and waves of unintelligible significance. The professor however was giddy.
The professor and I then trolled around that area for a half hour or so and began to pick up a few fish. We didn't keep many mind you, the professor was one of those "catch and release types" remember? Then without any warning it happened. I had switched baits and hooked the always-dependable night crawler to my line just moments before. Suddenly the rod began to arc in my hand. My heart raced with anticipation as I fought my finned adversary to the side of the boat. At last victory was sealed as I landed a silver sided five-pound red horse (sucker) and lifted my prize from the water. At that moment I felt like a true fisherman. The professor shook his head in disbelief as he reluctantly allowed me to place my catch in his live well.
"Johnson, you and your Welfare fish!" He then declined my suggestion that we drop anchor and see if we could catch any more. Prejudice had at last reared its ugly head.
We all know deep in our hearts that prejudice is simply wrong. I reluctantly admit that in the past I have associated with people that were prejudiced and intolerant of other creatures which were different. They refused to know them and were quick to cast judgment regarding their "value." Regretfully, even more unsettling was the realization that even members of my own family were guilty of many of the same unfounded, unfair generalizations. I have matured enough morally at my present age to admit that I also carry the burden of some of that shame. I am man enough to face my own moral shortcomings and to confess openly to the world: I'm not impressed with walleyes.
There, I've said it and I stand before the sport fishing community a guilty man. This shameful prejudice has forced me to closet my true feelings about this species in an attempt to circumvent the reproach and distain of my fellow citizens of the Great State of Minnesota. In this great land, the walleye is not merely the official state fish but rather the much-venerated god of all her 10,000 lakes. Adding to my pathetic condition, I don't particularly care for the sport of ice hockey either, although a lifelong resident of Minnesota's borders. The people's fascination with this sport still perplexes me.
Now that I have confessed my sins openly, I have no expectation of clemency and will no doubt be forcefully exiled from Minnesota's borders in the very near future. With this in mind I really have nothing to lose and I will now have my last words knowing full well the consequences of my actions.
I think walleyes are highly overrated. I don't see them as particularly attractive looking. They aren't that fantastic a fighter. Nor are they that spectacular a company at the dinner table. I refuse to blindly recognize their alleged superiority.
Open-minded friends have tried their best to help me see the light. Yet they remain vigilant holding on to their own deeply held prejudices. I am working on my own intolerance and struggle on a daily basis to attain admiration for the species. Although true appreciation is a distant goal, I am battling my prejudice with determination.
I will now speak for those without a voice and sing their praises trying desperately to help eliminate prejudice and intolerance in live wells and supper tables nationwide.
In my part of this great nation these are but a few examples of noble fish which have suffered much anguish and suffering due to the prejudice of the narrow minded.
The Sucker
"Bottom Feeder" and "Rubber Lips" are but a sample of the hurtful and coarse language this fish has been chastised with in the past. Although hope springs eternal, appreciation for this unique species is a distant hope thanks to the many closed minded anglers in this country. Other nations thankfully do not discriminate against this noble fish. Carps and suckers are revered and admired in much of modern day Europe as well they should be, for their value as a fine sporting fish. Sadly immigrants left behind many honorable traditions in the old country when they came to the United States. In many parts of Asia fish belonging to this genus bring premium prices at the market due to their superior flavor and size.
Suckers are one of the most versatile fish regarding preparation options. They make excellent ground fish patties, are very good canned, and are exceptionally good smoked and pickled. Suckers have large strong bones, which can dull the typical fillet knife in seconds. A thin serrated blade does an adequate job but by far the most efficient way to clean these fish is with an electric knife-the same type many Americans use to carve the Thanksgiving turkey. It would be worth the investment to purchase one exclusively for fish cleaning duties. Suckers are also in possession of those pesky "Y" bones that members of the pike family are notorious for. When using suckers for fish patties or canning, it is advisable to remove the strip of meat containing these bones between the backbone and the top of the "Y" row. This step is unnecessary for pickling and smoking. Fish to be used for patties should first be soaked overnight in a cold water and salt solution in the refrigerator: 1/4 cup table salt to 1/2 cup cold tap water.
They should then be thoroughly rinsed in cold water before grinding.
Fish Cakes
4 lbs. sucker fillets
1 lb. raw peeled potatoes or 2-1/2 cups prepared instant potatoes
2 large eggs
1-1/2 tablespoons crumbled crisp
Fried bacon
1/4 teaspoon garlic or seasoned salt
In a meat grinder, run fish through fine blade once separately then grind again with potatoes, onions and bacon. In a large bowl add beaten eggs and seasoned salt. If mixture won't stick together add a few tablespoons of flour or cornstarch. Form into loaves on waxed paper, roll up and place in freezer. Loaf can then be sliced and pan-fried, deep-fried or baked. Lightly coating the patties in pancake mix before frying will really add a pleasing flavor.
Fish Patties
4 lbs. sucker fillets
2 large eggs
1 small onion
1 capful lemon extract
1 large box soda crackers (Saltines)
Salt and pepper
Patties
Grind fish once with fine blade then grind again adding onion, soda crackers-six or so at a time. In a large bowl add lemon extract and a dash of coarsely ground black pepper. Fold in ingredients and check consistency. If mixture is too loose to form loaves, add enough crushed soda crackers to achieve proper consistency. Form loaves on waxed paper, roll up and place in freezer. Slice and fry in light cooking oil. Serve with lemon and tartar sauce in addition to salt and pepper.
Canned Sucker
I challenge anyone to taste the difference between this fish canned and any canned fish you can purchase at the supermarket. Fish are simple to can and the process is an inexpensive alternative to purchasing store bought products. Canned sucker can be substituted for cooked flaked fish in any recipe that calls for tuna or other fish.
Canned Sucker
1 tablespoon ketchup
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 tablespoons dry onion flakes
(All ingredients per pint of fish)
Pack fish cut into 2-inch strips in sterile canning jars. Pints are easiest to work with. Leave enough head space for ingredients. Mix ingredients in bowl and spoon over fish cutlets. Process jars in pressure cooker at 10 pounds for 90 minutes. Let jars gradually cool at room temperature. Store.
Pickled Sucker
Brine
In a large plastic container make a solution of white vinegar with enough salt dissolved in the solution to float a raw egg in the shell. Submerge fillets in solution and let stand in the refrigerator at least 24 hours, although 48 hours is preferred. Remove from fridge and rinse thoroughly in cold tap water.
Sweet Brine
Brine fish as above and drain. Then prepare a sweet brine of vinegar and 1/2 cup of white sugar per 1/2 gallon of fish. Fill sterilized jars with a layer of fish, a thin slice of onion and a dash of pickling spice. Repeat steps until the jar is 2/3 full. Pour sweet brine over top of fish until every piece is submerged. Cap jars and date; place in back of refrigerator. Each day for the next seven days, remove jars from fridge and give each a gentle shake. This insures that no air pockets exist and that each piece is completely immersed in the sweet brine. On the eighth day the fish is ready to enjoy. Compare this simple recipe to commercially prepared pickled herring at a fraction of the price!
The Bullhead Catfish
Prejudice is not based on reason. Perhaps this helps to soften the blows of the uncaring. How could anyone look down his or her nose at this innocent looking being? The bullhead catfish has been the subject of ridicule and genuine hateful speech for no discernable reason. Although his close cousins the Blue, Flathead and Channel Catfish have long had their egos inflated and their status as members of the "respectable game fish" community insured, the unfortunate illegitimate cousin the bullhead has been cursed, poisoned and hated by Fish and Game Departments and callous anglers. Sadly, people who lead upright and moral lives in every other respect have allowed prejudice to rear its ugly head when brought eye to beady-or rather petite-little eye when this noble fish is found at the end of the line. Perhaps this primal reaction is rationalized albeit unfairly, by this species' tendency to be short, or more correctly-horizontally challenged-and to seldom reach a mass of five pounds. Maybe the species misunderstood habit of gobbling up eggs, fry and fingerlings of other more valued game fish helps to rationalize the vigilante behavior in so many otherwise good people. The only way we as Americans can ever hope to eliminate prejudice and intolerance is to sit down and get to know each other one on one. This can be made much less awkward over a meal.
Black Cats with a Kick
2-1/3 cup dry pancake mix
2 large eggs (beaten)
2/3 cup cornmeal or pulverized corn flakes
1 cup buttermilk
1 tablespoon seasoned salt
1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper or curry
1 teaspoon oregano
1 teaspoon chili powder
In a bowl combine eggs and milk. In a large plastic bag add all dry ingredients and shake well. Dip fish in egg mixture, drop in bag and shake to insure even coating. Deep fry in light oil to a golden brown. Bullheads are also good simply rolled in a little flour and salt and pepper and pan fried in a skillet. They are also quite good for smoking, canning and pickling.
The Burbot
The unassuming eelpout, as it is locally referred to, is not an eel (not that there's anything wrong with being an eel, although the "pout" is usually provided by the one who has caught it), has been shown the greatest degree of public disfavor among those discriminated classes I have introduced. This accommodating fish has been called "snakefish," "eel fish,"and far more disturbing adjectives in loud voices on boats by haughty and arrogant anglers and in soft voices at seedy bait shops for far too long. The time has come to no longer tolerate this blatant discrimination. Through no fault of its own it was born, or more accurately, hatched, differently than other fishes. Many have unfairly judged this species "worthless," simply because of its unique appearance.
Alas, this species has found a place to reside somewhat protected from the world's cruelty. Deep dark cool waters of great depth have welcomed them with open arms. They have learned to live alongside the Lake Trout and to share their sustenance and neighborhoods without prejudice. The exemplary behavior of these trout is to be commended and should stand as a model to us all. Although the burbot is genetically a freshwater cod-the most revered food staple in the world-the burbot sadly is extended no such respect.
Burbot are fighters of similar virtue as the much-revered walleye, yet receive little of the respect due their tenacity. This fish can be more easily appreciated after someone assists you in unwrapping the slimy-or more compassionately described-"moist" fish that has locked itself around your arm. The easiest and most satisfying way to really get to know this "interesting" looking fish is to get past its unique form and genuinely try to see what's on the inside.
Burbot are cleaned for the table in much the same manner as members of the catfish family. A shallow cut which passes just through the skin that encircles the neck area. The skin is then peeled down the length of the fish to the tail through the use of pliers. The head and entrails are then removed along with any fat deposits, which may lie alongside the body cavity.
Although not free to associate with its fellow water creature the lobster, the burbot's similarity to the regal lobster is appreciated only by those who dare to break down barriers and savor his companionship and good taste.
Poor Man's Lobster
Burbot fillets cut into 2 inch pieces
2 tablespoons salt
1 bay leaf
1/4 teaspoon parsley
1/4 teaspoon onion or other seasoned salt
Melted butter
Season fish evenly with ingredients above and set in fridge for an hour. Place in an electric fry pan or deep-sided skillet. Add enough warm water to cover fish and spike water with 1/2 lemon or 2 capfuls of lemon extract. Simmer fish until it begins to flake apart. Remove from direct heat before the fish becomes overcooked and mushy. Drain into colander and serve in a covered dish, as the fish will cool quickly. Serve immediately with melted butter. Garlic toast is also a nice complement.
Beer Pout
Burbot fillets
12 oz. beer (preferably flat)
1 cup flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
Salt, pepper, garlic salt to taste
Reserve beer. Combine other ingredients in bowl and add beer until a thin pancake consistency is attained. Dip dry fillets in batter and pan fry in 1 inch of light oil.
Burbot are also very good smoked, pickled and canned.
The Rock Bass
With the name "bass" one would assume that this tenacious fighter would instantly have some prestige in the angling hierarchy. Regretfully, that is not the case. Though not a true "bass" in the genetic sense, this fish with the slender "panfish" body type and the blood red-or more pleasantly described-scarlet eye is revered by few. How terribly unfortunate. Although both black and white crappies are aggressively sought nationwide, the crimson-eyed member of the family with a similar diet, body structure and mass, is generally looked upon with disdain. In some states this fish is so underappreciated and neglected that there is no closed season to protect them as there is for more "sporting game fish."
I challenge anyone to distinguish the difference between fillets from this fish from those of crappies or white bass. They can be prepared in any manner you would prepare other fish fillets. This simple recipe will really help to appreciate the delicate flavor of good ol' fatbacks.
Sweet Rock Bass
7Up (or similar soft drink)
Dry pancake mix
Cooking oil
Salt and pepper
Pour a bottle of 7Up, ginger ale or similar soft drink into a large bowl and add pancake mix until you attain a thin watery batter. Dip fillets into batter and fry with margarine or a light vegetable oil. (Butter is difficult to work with at high temperatures ;it easily scorches, turns brown and smokes. This can ruin a batch of fish in a hurry so use care when substituting butter.)
All fish mentioned in this article are excellent candidates for the smoker with the exception of rock bass, which are best prepared fresh. All that is required to smoke fish successfully is a kettle style barbecue with a cover, some charcoal and some smoking wood. Smoking woods are preferred "green" but dry woods may be substituted if soaked overnight in warm water first which encourages the production of smoke and not flame. Most any woods will do an adequate job. The most popular smoke woods here on the North Shore of Lake Superior are sugar maple and speckled alder. Woods from mesquite and hickory are also sometimes utilized but do not grow locally. Care should be taken when using fruit tree woods as they have a tendency to "flame up" and create a black acrid smoke that can permeate a scorched taste throughout a batch of fish. Utilizing green woods is good insurance against this problem.
Fillet suckers only. Bullheads and burbot can be cut lengthwise "butterfly style" to ensure thorough cooking. Always leave the skins intact on all fish to be smoked. Fish should be immersed overnight in a cold water cure of:
- 1 cup packed brown sugar (1-1/2 cups of maple syrup also works well)
- 1 cup salt
- Mix solution thoroughly.
A square sided plastic dishpan can be purchased for a few dollars and is just the right size for this operation. Your spouse's Tupperware may pick up a "fishy" smell, so keep the peace in your home and spring for the dishpan.
The following morning, start the coals. Remove fish from solution and pat dry with paper towels. When the fish have dried to the point that the flesh appears to have a "shine" and is sticky to the touch, they are ready for the smoker. Lay an old metal cake pan or a foil roasting pan on the top of the charcoal heap; add the smoke wood and 3/4 inch of tap water to the pan. Install the grill grate and arrange fish on grate, skin side down so the fillets are not touching one another. Cover the grill. The fish should be ready to eat in about three hours. A check half way through the smoking is a good way to gauge the progress and to add a sprinkle of brown sugar on each fillet. Should the smoke wood burst into flames, a squirt bottle filled with tap water can take care of the problem and a small amount of water added to the smoke pan is also a good idea. Using this method of smoking, the fish are steam cooked thoroughly. The fish are done when they easily flake apart with a fork. Fresh smoked fish are best enjoyed warm with an adult beverage but may be placed in the freezer individually wrapped for storage.
Let's all do our part to help eliminate prejudice in this world-one fish at a time.
