When my grandson, Ethan, was small, one of his favorite read-to-me books was about a squash that grew so rampant that the vine engulfed a village, with a boy hero riding a giant squash.

I don't want a squash vine to swallow my property, but I do try to have an abundance of squash every year. Squash are low in calories (15 per half-cup), which appeals to me, since I've always had to fight a tendency to be overweight. Yellow squash contain the phytochemical lutein, which is helpful for eyes. That interests me because I have glaucoma, an incurable disease that has already robbed me of some sight.

To get squash early, I have tried various gimmicks. I have started plants in peat pots, about four weeks before my last frost date. I keep these watered well; during the last week, the roots are coming through the pots and I water them two or three times a day. When I set them out, I plant them deep enough so I can cover the rims of the peat pots with soil. Otherwise the peat pots will wick moisture out of the surrounding soil and the plants will suffer from lack of water.

Another technique that has worked for me: create a mini-greenhouse for early hills of squash. For that, I save gallon jugs, which I've emptied of milk or vinegar. I wash the jugs well, and cut off the bottoms.

Two weeks before my last frost date, I dig a hole about a food deep. Into the hole I place a shovelful of litter from my henhouse. I put a shovelful of dirt over that, and sow squash seeds. I set a bottomless gallon jug over each hill. As the chicken waste rots, this compost produces heat beneath the sprouting seeds. The jug collects solar heat. On warm days, I remove the jug, because the temperature inside the mini-greenhouse can get too high. I replace the jug in late afternoon, to protect the squash seedlings from cool night temperatures.

After my last frost date has passed, I plant my main crop of squash. I grow yellow crookneck, straight neck, zucchini and the "Sunburst" scallop squash. I like the flavor of the crookneck for a stewed squash, but zucchini and scallop have a more firm texture which I prefer for frying or casseroles.

Squash need plenty of sun and adequate moisture to develop the fruits. They are sensitive to soil pH, preferring a neutral or slightly alkaline soil (7 or above). If my pH meter shows a reading below 7, I add some lime to the squash row. I like to use compost (I think it gives squash a better flavor); but a tablespoon per hill of 5-10-5 fertilizer will suffice.

When irrigating squash, I use a soaker hose to place the water at the roots, or I water early in the day so leaves can dry before night. Moisture on the leaves encourages foliar diseases.

Powdery mildew manifests as white patches on the leaves. In the south, during hot summers, this can become a real problem, which is difficult to control with fungicides.

Mosaic manifests as a mottling of leaves or slightly curled, malformed leaves. Rotation helps prevent mosaic: watermelon virus #1 strikes southern gardens; virus #2 is more prevalent in the north. Cucumber mosaic can also affect squash. For summer planting, I use Multipik (Harris Seeds, PO Box 24955, Rochester, NY 14624-0966; www.harrisseeds.com), which is resistant.

The mosaic virus is spread by chewing insects, like aphids. Some gardeners report that using a white or silver mulch keeps aphids away, thus preventing mosaic.

I try to forestall Squash Enemy #1: the squash vine borer, by using several preventive methods. This destructive creature is the larva of a day flying moth, which lays its eggs on the stem, just above the soil line. The hatchlings burrow into the stem, destroying the plants root-to-leaves food transport system. When mature, the borer vacates the hollow stem and goes into the soil to pupate.

The first preventive measure is deep tilling early enough to expose pupa to cold night temperatures. To foil those that survive, we apply bacillus thurengienses to the base of the stems. This is a biological control which gives all worms critical indigestion.

To further protect from the effects of vine borers, we heap soil over stems at intervals to encourage roots to form. Thus, if the heart of the plant dies, new plants survive.

Squash bugs suck sap from leaves and stems, dehydrating the plant. These bugs are visible, grey nymphs or a brown or black beetle. The best non-toxic treatment is to check undersides of leaves at least once a week. Crush masses of eggs.

Two years ago we tried the Italian zucchini "Tromboncini" (available from Pinetree and Territorial Seeds). When I ordered seeds, I didn't notice this was a vining, rather than a bush squash. A few weeks after planting, my husband remarked, "that new squash variety is spreading quite a lot." I checked the listing and realized my oversight. By summer's end, the vines had spread-not over the whole community, but about eight feet in all directions. Ethan was amused to see the huge squash plant with its long-necked fruit. Was this the runaway squash of our storybook?

The Tromboncini, if picked young, is similar to other zucchini. However, left to mature, it ripens to a buff color and develops a hard skin like a winter squash. I left several mature Tromboncini on my back porch and they kept until Thanksgiving.

The Tromboncini can be used the same as a butternut squash, though it has a unique flavor. I cut off the neck, then split the round part and scoop out the seeds. I then peel and cut into chunks, boil until it's fork-tender, then mash. With butter and salt, it makes a vegetable side dish; with sugar and cinnamon, it can be served as dessert. I also tried it as a substitute for pumpkin in my regular pie recipe, and we found it delicious.

To freeze any kind of squash, I cook it just as though I were planning to serve it for dinner, except I don't add salt. After cooling, I pack it into containers and freeze.

I also can squash. I boil it until soft, then pack it into jars. Add enough juice or boiling water to fill the jar, and add a half-teaspoon of canning salt. I process in a pressure canner: 10# pressure, 25 minutes for pints; 30 minutes for quarts.

When I cook squash that has been frozen or canned, I place it in a casserole dish and bake, so excess liquid evaporates.

When I use frozen or canned squash in a recipe, I add a tablespoon of flour or cornstarch to thicken the mixture.

Squash Casserole

1 cup squash (any kind), diced or grated
1 chopped sweet onion
1 beaten egg
12 saltine crackers, crushed
1 cup grated cheese, if desired
1 tablespoon flour or cornstarch if using canned or frozen squash

Reserve half the crumbs for topping. Mix the other ingredients and place in an oiled casserole dish.