Electricity is one of the most dependable commodities we enjoy in America. From small rural co-ops to the massive electric companies that serve tens of millions, it is their priority to keep electricity flowing, and they do a great job of it.

The house genset is run under the carport with open sides. Never run them near windows, vents or doors and don't even think about running them indoors, the fumes can kill you. Note the small board under the legs to keep the unit level. They start with the first pull. Most portable generators have wheels making it a snap for one person to move. Shown here are 3650 watt and 5000 watt generators. The Evers use the smaller one at the pump house due to the distance and the larger unit at the house. These are from the Home Depot, but other quality brand name gensets are also available from most big box, hardware, farm, ranch and tool stores as well as online.

In most cases, the power comes back on in a timely manner, but if it doesn’t, you’re in trouble. In the summer, there’s food in the fridge and freezer that needs to be kept cold. In the winter almost all household heating systems require electricity to run, and if you’re on a well, you’ll lose water pressure the second you open the tap.

The easiest and most affordable way to guarantee you have a source of year-round electricity is with a generator. While generators used to be quite expensive, they have come down dramatically due to the huge demand over the past decade.

Like most appliances, there are numerous things you need to consider before buying one. While looking at the history of your electric supply is a good gauge, it can’t predict future performance. The Kentucky ice storm last winter killed 36, caused untold damage and left millions without power for weeks.

When a disaster strikes, there aren’t any to be purchased anywhere, at any price. A generator is an item you need to purchase while the electricity is on and there is a good selection, like batteries and water before a hurricane arrives.

A generator can mean the difference between a disaster and an inconvenience, light and dark, heat and cold. A generator can save you thousands in repairs if it keeps your pipes from freezing and food from thawing. In short, if you have one emergency appliance, it should be a generator.

After moving to the Rockies, I felt that a generator would be a wise investment due to below zero weather and severe winter storms. Recently, a heavy snow took out power for 10 days, and those with generators stayed home and enjoyed the break. For others, it was a trip to a shelter with cots and hundreds of people sharing a common sleeping area.

Generator types

The first thing you need to decide on is the type of generator. There are two basic types: standby and portable.

Standby generators are usually housed in an enclosure on a pad and are designed to run the whole house or the basic necessities during an emergency. They are usually propane, natural gas or diesel, and are designed for prolonged use. They also require professional installation and wiring, and run in the thousands of dollars.

The more common and much more affordable generators or “gensets,” as they are often referred to, will work well in a pinch and with proper care and maintenance can be used for prolonged outages. They usually have wheels for portability and large gas tanks for good run times. A minimal amount of assembly with common tools (usually just mounting the wheels and legs) is all that’s required.

Gasoline generators are readily available and have come down in price to as low as a couple of hundred bucks. However, let me be perfectly clear. There are some foreign generators on the market that if you need parts, you might wait months, if they are available at all. I strongly recommend if you can afford it, sticking with a well-known brand. Parts are available and service can be performed locally. However, if a $240 foreign genset is all you can afford, get it, run it in, test it and take care of it. It only has to work once to pay for itself.

The little black box next to the oil fill is a low oil shutoff, which is a terrific feature. Always check the oil level when you refill the gas and you won't have a problem. The first two sets of outlets are standard 120vAC. The round plug on the right is a 240vAC outlet, and in between are two circuit breakers to prevent overloading. The transfer switch above the household circuit breaker has a twist plug that runs to the genset and allows you to "transfer" power directly (and safely) into the house circuit, keeping everything plugged in.

There are also some small 2-cycle generators available. However, they require mixing gas with oil like a chain saw and have a shorter life than a 4-cycle unit. Virtually all larger gensets use 4-cycle engines, however, simply ask to make sure if you are uncertain.

Most gensets, if maintained with good fuel and run regularly, will easily start in a pull or two. However, if pull-starting an engine is a problem for you, one option you might want to consider is an electric starter.

Another nice feature is a low oil shut off which keeps the engine from starting or getting destroyed if the oil runs low. One simple protocol is to check the oil every time you add gas.

Where to start

The most important aspect of buying a genset is determining how many watts you will require to survive an outage.

Without getting too technical, electricity is comprised of volts, watts, amps and cycles, which relates to AC or alternating current. For our purpose, all American products are standard 60 hertz (or cycles) so it’s a non issue.

We need to focus on watts and amps. Most gensets are rated in watts while most appliances are rated in amps. All household appliances that you can simply plug into a regular outlet are 120 volts AC. Many major appliances like electric water heaters and dryers use 240 volts and are not something you would normally run in the event of an outage but could if they were properly set up.

A simple conversion factor is amps x volts = watts. For example, a freezer that uses 4 amps (4 amps x 120 volts = 480 watts) will draw 480 watts.

However, devices with a motor, like a well pump, drill motor and compressors on refrigerators, freezers and air conditioners, require additional “startup” current to get it started, sometimes two or three times or greater than the sustained or running amperage.

While it sounds pretty complex, there are ways around it. One is to simply buy a generator that has enough output to overcome the startup amperage. Another way is to simply “stagger” the appliances you need to run. If you run a freezer and fridge, you simply plug in one, (preferably the higher load) let it run awhile, then plug in the other. By staggering the load, you can run more appliances than if you tried to start them all at once. Not to worry if you’re unsure, generators have circuit breakers that will let you know if you are overloading them.

Because all appliances are different, you can have a licensed electrician do a load analysis regarding the generator size. If you don’t want to spend the money, and the appliances you want to run total 4000 watts, a 6000-watt genset should more than suffice, depending upon the number of high load devices. If you do have the option to go bigger, it is usually worth it in the event of a prolonged blackout. Many gensets have a higher initial starting output. My Husky 5000-watt house genset has an additional 1250 “starting watts” for a total of 6250 watts to get any motorized appliance up and running, and will produce 5000 running watts. However, other than on startup, I like to run my genset at about 50%, as it works less.

If your well pump requires 240 volts AC, you will need a genset that produces 240v AC as well. You need to figure out how to get power from the genset to the pump. I store a 3650-watt genset in the well house, and have it on a 240v AC plug that matches the gensets. If the power goes down, I simply unplug the pump from the wall and plug it directly into the genset. Although it sounds like overkill, the pump house genset is a good distance from the house, and it only runs for 10 minutes at a time when you need water, so a dedicated pump house genset is best.

The most affordable way to get power from the genset to the house is to simply run an extension cord into the house and plug the appliances directly into it.

A more effective but much costlier way is with a transfer switch. A transfer switch wires to the house panel and lets you plug a single cord from the genset to the switch. It then allows you to transfer the circuits you wish to use in the house. It eliminates having to roll the refrigerator out to get to the plugs, and lets you run overhead lights, tv and some larger appliances like a water heater. It also requires professional installation. They aren’t cheap, but they really make power management easy.

Never, ever under any circumstances run a line from your genset into your wall outlet, even if the breaker is off. It could electrify the line and kill a lineman working on the outage. If the power comes back on, it could fry the genset and cause other damage as well.

Some basic precautions

Once you get a genset, you need to decide where to store it and run it during an outage. Never ever run a genset indoors—ever! Don’t bring it in or refuel it indoors; it’s like a cow, and should remain outside.

Faithfully follow all maintenance and safety instructions.

When you do pick a location, make sure it’s away from windows, doors and any vents where the exhaust fumes can infiltrate. Under an open carport well away from the house is a good location.

Gas stabilizers are essential in order to keep fuel "fresh." Without them, over a period of time you might end up with a tank full of "stale" gas. The pump house unit gets a quarterly inspection and running to keep it on the "ready." The pump cord is a twist lock 240v AC type. Make sure you get the right style plug as there are quite a few. Also, if you aren't sure about wiring, have an electrician do it.

If you decide to run an extension cord, make sure it’s large enough to handle the amperage. Make sure you do it safely and don’t overload the system.

Most gensets have two or more outlets letting you run extension cords in different directions and special cords for generators have a 240v AC twist plug on one end and two pairs of 120v AC circuits on the other.

Also, just because it’s a generator, don’t be lulled into thinking it can’t hurt you if you use it improperly or in wet conditions. Even a small generator can kill or injure you. Only use it under a dry, safe cover and never handle the cords when wet.

Fuel storage is another issue. There are several safe ways to store fuel for use during an outage. First of all, only keep the generator about 90-95% full to allow for expansion and minimize condensation in the tank.

The fuel you store does need treating to keep it “fresh.” Additives like STA-BIL and POR 15 keep gas from deteriorating if it is simply setting. Additives can keep new fuel “fresh” for up to a year or more. After 8-10 months, I use the extra stabilized fuel in my tractor and mowers then replace it to keep fresh fuel in the “pipeline.”

I keep my motor home full of 60 gallons of stabilized fuel and can access it safely if I need to. I also store an additional 10 gallons in gas cans approved for storage outside. In some areas, it is a fire violation to store fuel so check if you’re unsure. Never store fuel in an inhabited building or in an attached garage or shed.

Remember, if the power is out over a wide area, the gas stations will not be able to pump all the gas that lies just a few feet underground.

Get to know the generator and do a dry run. Make sure the cords work and are long enough and that it has enough power to run your essential appliances, and run the genset every two or three months for 10 minutes to keep it ready.

During a blackout, use it only as long as you need to, because you don’t know how long it will be before the power comes on, particularly if it is a large disaster like a hurricane or ice storm. Also, don’t use it just for lighting or other low draw appliances unless you run the freezer/fridge at the same time.

If you do lose power and are prepared, stay put. It won’t be a disaster, just an inconvenience, and maybe even a nice respite.