Fois gras technically refers to liver from fattened ducks and geese, but you can substitute liver from humanely treated pastured animals. Just make sure the animals have been slaughtered when they are at their fattest, as soon as pasture grasses dwindle—in July here in southwestern Oregon.

Slice chilled liver and put it into a pan that's been heated several minutes on high with duck or bacon fat or a high temperature oil like coconut or olive. Add a little butter after you put the liver in. Cook it very fast, just a couple minutes at most on each side, until it is crispy on both sides but still pink inside. Enjoy it as is, with a little salt and a platter of fruit. Or turn it into paté.

Remove liver from heat and let rest 15-20 minutes to cool and reabsorb its juices. Then place it in a food processor with whipping cream, sherry or apple jack if desired, a pinch of salt and a little ginger and nutmeg. Alternatively, you can cook the livers until soft in a 225°F oven with butter, chopped onions and a semi-sweet liquor such as brandy, apple jack or sherry. You can also add mushrooms if you wish.

Process it until it is very smooth. Don't worry if it is a little bit runny since it will firm up in the refrigerator. Add white pepper and/or ground mustard if desired. Serve cold for lunch or dinner with crusty bread, apple slices and good mesclun salad. Paté is delightful also at brunch with a sweet bread like gingerbread, served inside of a flaky pastry, or even in the scooped out seed cavity of apples or pears with some pecans sprinkled on top.

Larisa Sparrowhawk is owner of Localvore Fresh Oregon Foods, LLC., 115 E. Central Ave., Sutherlin, OR  97479; localvorefresh@aol.com